At last! After many long years and failed attempts, the brothers, minus a couple, + Jack were able to return to their most religious spot to experience one of their most religious activities.... Boogie boarding at Shorties! Yes, i called it boogie boarding, and what a time we had.
The sun was low, and its gold warmth shield warmed the surface of our wet-suits. We were brown boys + a whitie, like a couple of islanders defending their turf, warriors preparing to battle the surf. As we walked towards the uncertain future, towards the blue abyss, towards our planet's black hole, we held our boogies steady, strapped on our fins, and prepared for the ocean's violent wrath.
Charging into the surf with the most tactical concentration, picking out the line of entry, judging the best time to step foot, we were surprised to be greeted with an eerie calmness of slow rolling mounds of water.. There was no challenge, there was no sign, the set had passed.
Once passed the break, and an easy pass it was, what little rest did we have until the battle had begun. Out of shape and out of breath, I hold back while Baker charges forth. I watch as he disappears in front of the wave. A moment later I see him near the shore fighting his way back to the mother ocean like a baby sea turtle fights to escape its beach. However, Chris being a smart sea turtle, he avoids the gulls, and the surfers, and directs himself past the break. At the same time, I push the turbo button and expel all my energy. I kick and paddle, kick and paddle. Before I know it I'm flying through the water, breaking right, away from the direction Chris is headed. I look back and see him throw up a warrier cry and tribal 'owwww owww' (hang loose) with his paddle hand. That's what it's about, living in that section of reality, in the surfer's eye.
***
It all starts with a spontaneous decision. The morning commenced with Chris making a mess of my roommate's down mattress cover. I won't get into detail, but when brothers reunite after a long part, the good times begin to roll, and so does the whiskey. And Jack and Chris, being the true and genuine gentlemen that they are, they deserved a good night out, and a lot of whiskey.
Luckily, the day ended with an amazing boogie session on the most beautiful section of coast on planet earth. It's times like these that keep the flame burning. It's people like this who will always keep that flame lit.
